Perfumer, Olivier Polge says, "The comet is a strong symbol for Chanel, and I’m thinking in particular of the Comète necklace from the 1932 High Jewellery Collection"
I can't give Chypre Mousse a bad rating as much as I want to. Chypre Mousse has nothing to do with its namesake evoking "Cyprus Moss," an early 20th to mid 20th Century concept pioneered by Coty of woods over sumptuous oakmoss. The instant fragrance, to me, is a rip off of 70s/80s powerhouse fragrances such as Boss Number One and Givenchy Gentleman. If you enjoy those types of fragrances, then Chypre Mousse will surely be up your alley.
Rip off of Caron Pour Un Homme at a much higher price. That being said, not bad, but not great. Virtually identical in notes and structure.
I'll start by saying that Musk Cologne is a well-made fragrance in its own right, but just not something I enjoy that much when there are many more affordable and more interesting fragrances in this genre. Musk Cologne seeks to re-create an 18th or 19th Century eau de cologne with a natural musk base. It does that, kind of. The opening is a blasé melange of tangerine and other citruses that gives way, rather quickly, to a white floral heart, which in my opinion, makes the overall composition too sweet. This cloying sweetness persists throughout, and this is what ruins Musk Cologne for me. The base has a touch of natural musk, which is observable...
Mongolian Mriga is a great fragrance for people who love barnyard ouds, but not something that I would wear. The opening is a powerful punch of natural musk and oud that reminds more of diesel fuel and birch tar. There isn't a whole lot of development here, but the fumes drydown to a barnyard oud with some woods and bit of the natural musk remaining. Mongolian Mriga is extremely strong -- one drop is really all you need.
MEM was disappointing to me though there is not really anything wrong with it. All I got was fruity opening of peach followed by some white florals and a generic powder/musk drydown with some of the peach/florals poking through. Not much to write home about here.
This 2023 L'Artisan Parfumeur scent by Antoine Maisondieu reflects the side of that house that I like the most, although it is not common across its offerings: deep, unctuous scents. I thought at first that A Fleur de pêche was also from the Explosion d'émotions line, in which I love "Rappelle-toi"--a woody musk featuring tropical gardenia+, wears like the musky hug of a fresh tropical bouquet--but it is not. Rappelle-toi is by Bernard Duchaufour. A Fleur de pêche by Maisondieu is also notably unisex, through the patchouli / jasmin accord. The name of the perfume is a pun on the expression "A fleur de peau," "sensitive," or even "thin-skinned," but the...
Nice, all-purpose ‘gents’ mix of a gently spiced tobacco-woody with a certain briskness about it provided by the bergamot and herbal notes. A bit of a throwback to the day when several perfumes aimed at the men’s market had this well-groomed broad spectrum of notes. An underlying humid mustiness that slowly reveals itself as artemisia is a plus, but this falls more in the ranks of the serviceable and well-executed rather than the exciting. Little by way of ‘oud’ about it. However, I must temper my lukewarm response – a result perhaps of my constant grazing at the buffet table of perfumery – with a more enthusiastic one by someone else. A...
Sometimes it pays to take a punt. Among the conveyor-belt parade of niche aspirants entering the market, it can be difficult to tell who’ll come up with some kind of goods after all the effort expended on branding and bluster. I decided to try some of La Closerie des Parfums ‘ouds’ because, refreshingly, they don’t lay any claims to including the ingredient in their notes’ lists. This suggested a certain confidence upon entering an overcrowded space and that merited having a try. So, to Oud Safran, which turned out to be surprisingly good. From an enticing gasoline-fumes kind of start of bracing factory leather imbued with rose and a bit of...
..........who would have thought? "The new A*Men Fantasm promises a true amber aromatic gourmand, offering the ultimate "masculine pleasure" with an intensely sensual and additive composition captured in a black signature bottle decorated with a silver star." https://www.fragrantica.com/news/Mugler-Angel-Fantasm-A-Men-Fantasm-20390.html Cheers, Renato
A while back I grew curious and ordered a sample of ELdO's secretions. It obviously wasn't pretty (clearly not meant to be) or even wearable (for me certainly) but the heavy iodine dose stayed with me, both literally and figuratively. I stupidly skin tested it and it took me hours to get clear of it, and here I am 2 years later still recalling that heavy, brackish iodine blast the minute I opened my first vial of scentenal. Which had the emotional impact of seeing someone from your past that you reeeeally didn't like and couldn't get out of your life inexplicably sitting in your living room. Is this because I am smelling a chemical component of...
Dear DIY enthusiasts, Since I'm new to DIY perfumery, I got myself the first set of aroma chemicals. Since creating accords is a very important block in perfumery, is it okay to start learning materials and attempt creating simplistic accords and see how materials blends together. Is it also okay blending some existing formulas and do some tweaking and see how each material has a certain effect. How do you approach learning? I want to learn and have fun at the same time. Thank you for reading
From the NYTimes 5/19/24 Trending scents By Callie Holtermann Reporter on the Styles desk There’s something going on with the way teenage boys smell. It’s become a cliché for adolescents to douse themselves in Axe body spray at the first sign of puberty. But lately, teen and even tween boys with money to spare are growing obsessed with designer fragrances that cost hundreds of dollars. Ask a teenager why he wants a $200 bottle of cologne, and he might tell you he’s “smellmaxxing,” a term for enhancing one’s musk that is spreading on social media. “I started seeing a lot of videos on TikTok and thought, I don’t want to miss out,” said...
Hello all, last summer in July I went on vacation to Durango Colorado. I spent a few days near Cortez in the high desert. I’m not sure exactly the smell in the high desert but it was beautiful. Possibly the smell of the juniper trees or the creosote bushes but something definitely stood out and I have been chasing that scent since. Unfortunately I wasn’t as into cologne then as I am now or I would have asked around while there. Any suggestions for colognes that remind you of the high desert? Thanks
Hello 👋 I had this silly idea to make a tanghulu candied orchid fragrance. I'm a bit stumped about the sugary, ever so slightly caramelized exterior of tanghulu in terms of recreating the smell. I'm considering using bran eo Ethyl Maltol Methyl furanone But these smell way to much like brown Caramel. Tanghulu is not fully Caramelized and has a bit of a raw sugar scent to it. I searched through odor index for sugar, and none give a raw sugar scent. Most are caramelized, burnt, or contain florals. I also found a sugar accord recipe but I don't like it because of its use of vanillin
Good morning, I'm studying for a Green/absinth formula, trying to take inspiration form perfumes that I like. One of this is Nasomatto Absinth. I smell a lot of musk in Gualtieri's perfume but, even if I put the 50% of musks (ambrettolide, habanolide, muscenone, galaxolide) in my formula, I'm still not able to perceive them nearly close as Nasomatto Absinth. Could it be that in my formula Iso E Super and Ambrox are too low in respect to the musks percentage? Is there any booster for musks that I'm missing? Thanks
Hi, I'm in search of a tobacco absolute with nicotine removed. I'm aware that the nicotine can be very dangerous in concentrated form. Thank you.
From this weekend’s NY Times on teen boys collecting high-end fragrances. Makes me long a bit for the days when Speed Stick was hip, and Brut and Skin Bracer the norm for teens… 🙃 https://www.nytimes.com/2024/05/19/style/designer-cologne-fragrance-teen-boys.html?smid=nytcore-ios-share&referringSource=articleShare
I’m launching my perfume in next few months. Put it as EDP with 25% final concentrations. Currently my blends just started the first maceration process. For the second maceration phase, I want it to be individually bottled so it would reach, and it’s ready to wear for the end user. But I have problems, with the atomizer. Do I need the liquified dimethyl ether or what type of gas? Which is safe to use and importantly, without knocking off my fragrance. Or maybe I need sort of atomizer cap that “technically pressurized”? If you can help me with links or recommendations for the pressurized atomizer cap, or any think that helps. I would be very...
Oil
