Michelin gastronomes may have recently sprinkled stars on Tokyo's most refined restaurants but it's the cities low-key izakayas that get the locals' vote. Roughly defined as bars that serve food each izakaya follows the same basic formula; an open counter where the chefs work, a selection of sake and menus that include made-to-share dishes of sashimi, yakitori (grilled vegetable and meat skewers) and tofu.
1. Teyandei, Nishi Azabu
Hidden in a pedestrian backstreet this tiny converted house is a tricky-to-find treasure. Two cosy floors of dark polished wood offer a range of seating options, hori-kotatsu (leg wells) allow even inflexible guests to sit on the tatami matt flooring, while a counter seat means a view of the creative chefs at work. Around £14 buys you an eight dish feast, including fresh fish carpaccio, deep fried yam and sushi rolls. An extra £7.10 means two hours of all-you-can-drink enjoyment.
· 2-20-1 Nishi-Azabu; +81 3 3407-8127
2. Buri, Ebisu
Part of a Tokyo-wide chain, this always-busy standing bar keeps things simple. Just 25 people can squeeze around the sleek circular bar, mostly hip Ebisu locals who come for the drink and stay for the food. Specialising in one-cup sake from around Japan, the friendly staff help navigate you through the endless varieties on offer. Meanwhile the smoke from the grilled dishes tempts you to dive into the extensive menu. Fish, meat and vegetable dishes start from £1.90.
· 1-14-1 Ebisu-Nishi; +81 3 3496-7744
3. Chez Aburiya, Aoyama
Most izakaya food is fast and furious, but a slow cooking philosophy means here meals take time, and are all the better for it. The entrance is tucked down an unmarked alleyway, hidden behind a façade of dark wooden vertical slats. Inside, the décor is understated and elegant, the 12 linen-dressed bar seats lit by low flickering lanterns. Blackboards boast the extensive menu in kanji, but a well written English menu means you won't miss out. A 10-dish set, including seasonal salad, chicken, dried fish and creamy tofu costs £18.50 per person.
· 3-12-4 Minami-Aoyama; +81 3-5770-5039
4. Bistro 35 Steps, Shibuya
Possibly the friendliest izakaya in town. Hidden down a side street in the teen nirvana of Shibuya, diners descend into the busy, boisterous room. Choose a seat at the large open kitchen counter and enjoy delicious dishes in generous portions, ranging from £3.10 to £3.80. Popular picks include tuna tartar with green onion and avocado, and the house speciality, mackerel seared before your eyes.
· B1 Shibuya City Hotel, 1-1 Shibuya: +81 3-3770-9835
5. Yui-an, Nishi-Shinjuku
In Tokyo, exteriors can be deceiving. Take Yui-an, an outstanding izakaya built on the 52nd floor of a boring looking office building. The interior is sleek and sophisticated, all polished woods, artfully placed bamboo and low lighting, designed not to distract from the floor-to-ceiling views of the twinkling cityscape below. The food is also surprising, good value à la carte options include three coloured tofu (£4.20) and Yuba spring rolls of chicken breast fillet and cheese (£3.40). Window seat reservations are essential.
· 52F Shinjuku Sumitomo Bldg., 2-6-1 Nishi-Shinjuku: +81 3-3342-5671
6. Ikkon, Akasaka
Most Tokyo nights begin at the izakaya and end in the karaoke booth. Here there's no need to leave your comfy floor cushion. Ikkon's five private rooms each include a karaoke kit, perfect for those whose inhibitions are loosened by the substantial sake list. Don't let the chance to croon distract from the menu though, the range of delicious fresh fish (sea bream on rice with green tea costs £4.20) will leave you ordering well after you're full. Visit midweek when neon-lit Akasaka is at its buzziest.
· 6F Oogiya bldg, 3-9-4 Akasaka: +81 3-3586-4888
7. Tsuki no Shizuku, Ginza
Metro stations are an excellent hunting ground for imaginative izakayas. Here diners step from Ginza's grey sprawling station into a softly-lit warren of cobbled stone walkways and tinkling water gardens. Some sit at the open counter but most pick a private room, a cosy tatami mat cubbyhole separated from its neighbour by a high bamboo window. The food is simple fare with prices to match, including sea bream sashimi (£3.25) and chicken and wasabi sticks (£2.40).
· B1F Ginza Inz, Ginza; +81 3 5159-0250
8. Seigetsu, Kagurazaka
It may not be in a tourist hotspot, but this izakaya is well worth the detour. Tucked up above a convenience store, Seigetsu is hard to spot, so look for the hanging ball of cedar needles that indicate an expertise in sake. Inside the décor is warm and traditional: bamboo screens separating each solid wooden table. Alongside the menu basics there are imaginative touches, steamed rice comes in a variety of broths including plum, salmon and wasabi, from £2.73.
· 6-77-1 Kagurazaka: +85 3 3269-4320
9. Gonpachi. Nishi-Azabu
A Tokyo institution. Rumoured to have inspired Tarantino's Kill Bill massacre scene, the imposing double height dining room, styled like an open-air courtyard, now rings with the more benign shouts of serving staff to chefs and the welcoming call to customers. An extensive menu includes yakitori, soba noodles and tempura. Prices start from £1.50 per dish. Reservations a must.
· 1-13-11 Nishi-Azabu; +81 3-5771-0170
10. Galali, Omotesando
This chic izakaya is carved from a small two-storey house, and despite its upmarket location offers excellent value. Enter through the sliding wooden door, flanked by low lit lanterns, and you're in a tiny elegant space of polished furniture and backlit sake bottles. Here they focus on the Japanese drink, even detailing 12 types of salt that should accompany each glass. Nabe stews and chargrilled meats and vegetables are the house speciality, but for a lighter dish try the refreshing tofu and cucumber £2.85.
· 3-6-5 Jingumae; +81 3 3408-2818